Garage Door Opener Replacement: what to note first

The opener in the ceiling is older than the car parked under it. It groans on the way up, the light fixture rattles, and there are no small sensors near the floor. The last technician mentioned that parts for that model stopped being made years ago.

Worth answering before the call

Is the door steel, wood or aluminum, and is it insulated? Is there a bedroom or living space above or beside the garage? How wide and how tall is the door, and is it a single or a double?

How long does an opener replacement take?

Plan on about half a day for a straightforward swap on a balanced door: removal, hanging the new rail and head, wiring the sensors and console, setting travel and force, running the safety tests and programming remotes. If the door balance check turns up spring or roller work, or a receptacle needs adding by an electrical contractor, allow extra time or a second visit for that part.

My old photo eyes still work. Can they stay?

Sensors and head unit are made for each other; a board reads its own maker's sensors, often a particular generation of them, so the pair in the box is what goes on the wall and the old ones come down with the old opener. The new pair sits low at each side of the doorway, roughly a hand's width above the concrete, and the technician confirms their indicator lights are steady before the door is tested against the beam.